The Duchess of Windsor’s Ruby Set: A Love Story in Jewels
Few jewelry collections in history are as dazzling—and as steeped in romance—as the ruby and diamond pieces commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his beloved Wallis Simpson.
Each piece tells a story of love, devotion, and resilience, crafted with extraordinary skill by the renowned jewelers Van Cleef & Arpels. From the breathtaking ruby necklace to the sentimental inscriptions hidden within the clasps, the Duchess of Windsor’s ruby set remains one of the most iconic and exquisite jewelry collections of the 20th century.
© Sotheby’s Auctions 1987
The Necklace: A Masterpiece of Design and Devotion
Designed by René-Sim Lacaze and executed by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1938, the Duchess of Windsor’s ruby and diamond necklace is a marvel of jewelry craftsmanship. This platinum-set masterpiece features intertwining “rivers” of rubies and diamonds, culminating in a breathtaking cascade of rubies. The meticulous craftsmanship required for such a complex design reflects both the jeweler’s expertise and the Duke’s desire to present his wife with nothing but the best.
But beyond its stunning beauty, the necklace carries an even deeper sentiment. The clasp is engraved with a personal dedication from the Duke of Windsor: “My Wallis from her David, 19.VI.1936”—a touching reminder of their enduring love. This date, June 19, 1936, holds immense significance, as it was during this time that Edward VIII was fighting to remain with Wallis despite the political turmoil surrounding their relationship.
The Bracelet: A Token of Support in Difficult Times
A few months before his abdication in December 1936, Edward VIII commissioned a magnificent ruby and diamond bracelet as another symbol of his devotion. This exquisite piece features four radiant ruby clusters, each surrounded by shimmering diamonds. The bracelet’s clasp bears the inscription “Hold Tight 27.III.36”—a phrase the couple often used to comfort and support each other during the challenging months before Edward’s decision to step down from the throne.
This bracelet represents far more than luxury; it encapsulates a moment of great uncertainty and unwavering love. As the British establishment worked against their union, Edward sought to affirm his loyalty to Wallis through every possible gesture, including these extraordinary gifts.
The Brooches: A Christmas Apart, A Love Unbroken
On December 10, 1936, Edward VIII delivered his famous abdication speech, giving up the throne “for the woman I love.” However, the complications that followed meant that the former King had to spend Christmas apart from Wallis. To bridge the distance, he sent her a pair of brooches in the shape of holly leaves, each exquisitely encrusted with rubies and diamonds.
These brooches hold historical significance beyond their dazzling beauty. According to the archives of Van Cleef & Arpels, they are among the earliest known examples of mystery setting—a technique in which gemstones are set in a way that conceals the metal prongs, allowing for a seamless flow of color and brilliance. This technique, which has since become a hallmark of the jeweler, was pioneered in pieces like these, adding another layer of prestige to Wallis’s collection.
Van Cleef & Arpels
A Legacy of Love and Luxury
The Duchess of Windsor’s ruby set is more than just a collection of fine jewelry; it is a testament to an unconventional love story that defied the expectations of royalty. Each piece, carefully commissioned and inscribed with personal messages, serves as a reminder of the Duke’s dedication to Wallis, even in the face of immense sacrifice.
Today, these legendary jewels remain some of the most sought-after in the world of high jewelry, representing not only impeccable craftsmanship but also one of the most passionate and controversial love affairs of the 20th century. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor may have spent their lives in exile, but their love, immortalized in rubies and diamonds, continues to captivate the world.
